Selected articles from the Spring 2001 issue
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BRUCE PENINSULA
CABOT HEAD TO LION’S HEAD
Doug Cunningham
The east coast of the Bruce Peninsula offers a number of paddling options, from short day trips to an extended 35 kilometre paddle covering the entire distance from Cabot Head to Lion’s Head. Spectacular dolomite cliffs, a mainland flowerpot formation, an escarpment waterfall, cobblestone beaches, and relatively wilderness paddling await the kayaker along this stretch of the Bruce Peninsula. The coastline is exposed and the paddling conditions are challenging when north and easterly winds buffet the shore. The scenic vista of the Niagara Escarpment cliffs and headlands extends continuously to the southeast as far as the eye can see. A pleasure to paddle and explore!
The waters here are deep and cold and when the winds are from the east or north the waves are challenging. Pay attention to the winds and weather and wear cold water immersion apparel, such as dry suits or wet suits, when paddling this area particularly during the early spring months. Certain sections of the coast are isolated and don’t provide any convenient exit, in particular, the areas between White Bluff and Smokey Head, and between Dyer’s Bay and Cape Chin North. Poison Ivy is rampant along the shore. Be cautious of the Massassauga Rattlesnake if you decide to explore the swamps and forested areas adjacent to these shores.
The best time to make this trip is May through September. There is cottage development at Dyer’s Bay, Cape Chin North, Cape Chin South, Whippoorwill Bay and Lion’s Head. This section of the Bruce Peninsula attracts mainly sailboaters and some fishermen. The highest concentration of boat traffic will occur at the Lion’s Head Harbour; take special care at the harbour entrance. The boat launch facilities at Dyer’s Bay has only light boat activity, even during the summer months.
There are a number of access points along this stretch of the peninsula – Cabot Head, Dyer’s Bay, Cape Chin North, Cape Chin South, and Lion’s Head – giving the paddler a good deal of flexibility in planning a trip. (If you are leaving a car in the parking lot at the Cabot Head Lighthouse, a donation to the Friends of Cabot Head Lighthouse, who maintain the lot, would be appreciated.)
POINTS OF INTEREST
(See Map)
Cabot Head Lighthouse: This lighthouse was originally built to mark Cabot Head and the entrance to Wingfield Basin and went into operation in 1895. The current building, with its replica tower and lantern, is open to the public in the summer and provides displays interpreting the area’s rich natural and human history. Parking is available.
Inuksuit Beach: About 2.5 kilometres south of Cabot Head is a raised limestone shingle beach on which people have constructed about 100 rock cairns, many modelled after the Inuit’s Inuksuit – stone cairns in the shape of a person.
The Flume and Gillies Lake: A worthwhile stop for the kayaker is the "Flume," the remains of the old log chute constructed by the Lymburner family to supply logs to their small saw mill which was located along the shore beneath the outflow from Gillies Lake. You can readily identify the site by the V-shaped indentation at the shore and the small waterfall that exits to the Bay under a road culvert.
Devil’s Cliff: About 1.6 kilometres south of Dyer’s Bay is a fascinating cliff formation with clefts, some wave action caves just beneath the escarpment top and, in the talus slope at the bottom, some interesting boulder passages.
Devil’s Pulpit: About 3 kilometres south of Dyer’s Bay is the largest flowerpot formation on the mainland Bruce Peninsula. It was formed about 5000 years ago by the wave action of Lake Nipissing. The flowerpot formation is located about halfway between the shore and the escarpment top. There is an interpretative plaque at the site.
Smokey Head Nature Reserve: This Nature Reserve has been designated an ANSI area and contains a variety of Georgian Bay shoreline habitats.
Reed’s Dump: This is a campsite for Bruce Trail hikers and provides easy access to the escarpment top and the Bruce Trail. The views of Isthmus Bay from the top of White Bluff makes the effort of taking a half-day hike to the south worthwhile.
White Bluff: This spectacular limestone cliff face rises almost 65 metres above the Bay and provides some of the more challenging dolomite climbs for rock climbers. You may see both Bruce Trail hikers and rock climbers from the seat of your kayak.
Brachiopod Fossils: As you paddle south from White Bluff you will see a shoreline of dolostone bedding planes backed by cobble beaches. These dolomite planes and outcrops contain numerous fossils particularly the brachiopod Pentamerous.
Lion’s Head Cliffs: These cliffs are given an ANSI designation because of the bedrock outcroppings and glacial features that depict previous glaciation episodes. Indeed, the highest concentration of "Indian Potholes" in Ontario is found here. The Lion’s Head outline at the end of the cliffs can be readily seen when paddling south from White Bluff.
Lion’s Head: Called the prettiest village in Ontario, this community has an excellent natural harbour, and provides all the amenities of modern civilization, from banking, through medical care and pharmaceuticals, to shopping for food and gifts. Camping is available at the Lion’s Head Campground adjacent to an excellent sand beach. Motel facilities plus two licensed restaurants and an LCBO store are also available. Parking is available at the marina.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Maps: 1:50,000 Dyer Bay (41 H/3), Cape Croker (41 A/14)
This is one in a series of trip descriptions collected by the Georgian Bay Committee for a paddling guide to the Bay.
DANCING HIGH AND LOW
Tim Dyer
High and low brace turns are my most favourite things to do in a kayak. Powerful, quietly carving, they have the potential to impress almost anyone, including your favourite person. Sea kayakers often get these turns confused with their whitewater cousins and the results are awkward, straining strokes ending in a hail of froth and splash, with about as much turn as a cow’s ankle. It’s all a boat dance really, and the whitewater crowd are short and quick to turn when you tell them to, but sea dancers, well … they are long-legged beauties who aren’t going to do anything just because you said so. So, let’s talk about how to make you and your sea partner dance and twirl.
First things first. If you are going to dance, you have to figure out who’s leading. Sometimes she (we’re talking boat here) wants to go one way and you the other. Somebody has to give in and the more you can agree, the better. Too many times I have lined up what I think is going to be a dandy carved turn, only to find my boat’s nose heading off in the totally wrong direction. This is usually a good time to give in and let her have her head, pretending you had it planned from the start. The trouble to get your way is usually not worth the effort.
But what is happening here? Well, the sea kayak world has somehow got this notion that if you edge left the boat will go right (a.k.a. outside turn), or something to that effect. It just ain’t so. All edging does is introduce a more curved and shortened wetted surface, which is more apt to turn. Sure there may be an argument that it will turn away from the edge, forgetting everything else – but when was the last time you successfully forgot "everything else?" The way it turns is completely a function of what forces are acting on the hull. When you add up those forces, one side wins out, and the winner is determined by a lot of things, including: how strong a stroke you have initiated the turn with, the shape of your hull, wave action and finally, the strength and direction of wind and current. Which brings me to my favourite strokes, both of which are inside edged turns, and a great deal of fun.
The high brace turn requires lots of forward momentum, so get a good head of steam going. Then start the proceedings with a couple of decent sweeps to the outside. Once things start to heat up and you think she’s got the idea, put her over on the inside edge, and hang a high brace (power side with slight climbing angle forward don’t forget!) right out from your hips at 3 or 9 o’clock and as far out as comfortable. The shaft should be approaching horizontal. Don’t overextend your arms, as you never know if she’s going to go all the way and you’ll need to catch her! Here is the best part. You just hang out on that high brace and wait for her to bring her head around. Don’t force the issue by drawing the blade forward, as you will simply stall her out. Just wait, and she will come. The turn is a wonderful dynamic feeling, and you can keep that feeling going by slowly bringing the blade forward of amidships to the bow as momentum slows. This keeps the turn happening and you might get another 10 degrees out of it. Once you’ve squeaked as much as you can, then it’s time to come upright again as you will have lost all bracing effect from the moving water. Finish off with a nice forward stroke and you both will look good. What’s really neat about this turn is the brace is simply there to allow you to heel her over as far as you can. It’s the action of the water against the hull that is creating the turn, not some heroic splash from your paddle. In fact, there should be very little noise or spray coming from your blade as that simply stalls out the turn and makes both of you look bad.
Now, on to the low brace turn. This has also been called a low telemark, and it has the same slinky smooth feeling as its high brother. It actually sets up and works the same way with lots of forward speed. The only difference is that we are now using a low brace presentation (non-power side with slight climbing angle forward) to the stern quarter at the 5 or 7 o’clock position. Again, we want to hang out for as long as possible (shaft near horizontal) and just wait for her to turn on edge. She’ll come round and when momentum slows, gradually bring the blade forward to midship position at 3 or 9 o’clock. Just like in the high brace turn, we are trying to wring out every last degree. Once you have wrung all you can, come on back upright, as you will have lost all bracing effect and there’s not much sense in tipping over! And there you have it, two fine dance moves for your favourite partner.
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