Selected articles from the Spring 2004 issue
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KAYAKING INTO THE STILLNESS OF GRAFTON POND
Richard E. Winslow III
As something of a stranger to western New Hampshire I discovered that Grafton Pond was no easy destination. Getting there became an ordeal of hit-and-mostly-missed dirt roads. A tucked-away 235-acre body of water in the Canaan-Enfield region, the Grafton Pond Reservation was donated to, and has been administered since 1984 by, the Society for the Protection of New Hampshire Forests (SPNHF). Finally I found it, and my dusty car and I emerged at a dam. Beyond lay the blue sheen of Grafton Pond, lovely in July’s midmorning sun.
My guiding friends had raved, almost conspiratorially, about Grafton Pond’s magical waters. John, my guide for today’s trip, was one of the most enthusiastic. "There is nothing like it left in New Hampshire," he said. "With an unspoiled shoreline, the pond is full of loons, ducks, and great blue heron." That endorsement convinced me to make the pilgrimage to the pond at the earliest opportunity.
Once at water’s edge, I spotted John and three other early-bird kayakers warming up in a cove. When I yahooed in their direction, John paddled toward me.
After twenty-five years of kayaking, John had developed the physique of a weight lifter. During those years, he had provided a guide service for Red Cross and teen groups. Just for the pure joy and solitude, he often kayaked solo in the early morning on Lake Winnepocket in his home village of Webster, New Hampshire.
At the Grafton Pond beach put-in, John had set aside a red Wilderness Systems Cape Horn kayak for me to use. After minor adjustments to the pegs, the kayak fit me as though it had been measured by a tailor.
At that moment, a much larger kayaking party was assembling at the put-in, preparing to launch its own expedition. John hailed the guide, who he knew from previous chance meetings here at the pond. A trip leader from the SPNHF, which often organized its own trips on the pond, she stayed in great year-round shape. "My son and I are climbing the 4,000-foot New Hampshire peaks during the winter," she said, "and I lead trips here the rest of the year."
John and I quickly joined our comrades waiting in the cove. They were Roger and Donna, a married couple, and a woman John knew from work. All were ardent adherents of the kayaking lifestyle, anxious to explore the pond.
We were off! John decided we should wend our way in a counterclockwise direction to take advantage of the best scenery. Our world became a maze of meandering passageways between islands, around peninsulas, and into coves closing and opening in haphazard fashion. Along the shore was a tangle of thickets of almost impenetrable forest, blow down, with ancient pines and birches. The forest was allowed to grow, thrive, and die in its natural cycle – in marked contrast to the grooming and "beautification" guidelines that state-park trail crews follow to clear out campsites and access roads. We soon passed a huge uprooted tree trunk, which would have required a careful bushwhack even to attempt a landing on that stretch of shoreline.
The glassy water surface, the cool air, and the absence of wind afforded ideal conditions. With each paddle stroke, we glided deeper into solitude. No one talked much, just an occasional whisper; nothing needed saying in this enchanted place.
As every outdoors enthusiast knows, a kayak seat is the best position for observing wildlife, especially birds, with a minimum of noise. As we entered more open water, John, in the lead, motioned silently to a great blue heron perched on a rock slab island. We moved forward and eventually the bird noticed us. Almost nonchalantly, the heron lofted like a hang glider, arching and closing its wings effortlessly as it landed on a birch branch on an islet a short distance ahead. The natural setting afforded the bird perfect camouflage as its slender body blended in with the tree limbs. When we approached again, the heron flapped away, a pattern it repeated three or four times, seemingly enjoying this hide-and-seek, come-and-find-me game for its morning exercise. As it flew off for the last time, perhaps it relished the extra dimension of flight, leaving us to watch enviously from our kayak cockpits.
Our encounters with the loons followed a similar routine. As the pond widened, two or three loons allowed us to approach only up to a certain distance, then they submerged to reappear farther away. Endowed with superior underwater swimming skills, the loons reveled in their mastery of concealment, mocking us humans with their evasion.
By now we had reached the wide-open centre of the pond, with vistas to the far shoreline and to Mount Cardigan. Its bald summit cone glowed silver in the sun, a beacon to guide us. I reminisced to the others about my visit some years earlier at the Appalachian Mountain Club lodge at Cardigan’s base. I had shared a delicious buffet supper with the mountaineers. Perhaps there will be another trip someday with John’s group, climbing Mount Cardigan to view Grafton Pond below.
As we bunched together in anticipation of a lunch stop, the conversation turned to the exploits of daredevil kayakers and their descents. Over the years, I had heard many stories about thrill seekers who went beyond the bounds of common sense to flash down cataracts, either to glory or to oblivion. " ‘There are old pilots and there are bold pilots,’ I repeated the old saying, " ‘but there are no old bold pilots.’ I guess the same is true for kayakers."
I reflected that Grafton Pond was an ideal place to find spiritual rest and inner peace. Foolish exploits involving Class V rapids, Himalayan summits, or fall-forever canyons only agitated me. My mind was exceptionally clear and placid on this day -just like the water’s surface. The whole world spread out in a panorama from the vantage of my kayak seat.
John drew alongside a slender island, just a slab rock foundation covered with earth and crowned with a row of tall pines resembling wooden ship masts. This pristine isle had nary a path, fire ring, or tree stump – just a pine-needle blanket and a profusion of ripe low-bush blueberries (which later provided our dessert). At a distant island behind us, the Forest Preservation kayakers had also landed for lunch. After lunch, a few of our party snoozed on pine-needle mattresses, two others retreated to the far end of the islet for a smoke, and I treated myself to a brisk dip in the pond, with every open pore becoming an instant goose pimple.
Our reverie over, we pointed our kayaks’ noses toward the northern (Mount Cardigan) end of the pond. Evidently the other expedition had turned back; we never saw them or anyone else for the rest of our trip. Off in the distance, the shoreline seemed solid and continuous, but it proved deceptive. As we drew closer, we encountered topography much like what we had seen at the start of our expedition – another obstacle course with a maze of islands and channels, reedy grass in shallow water, and half-sunken waterlogged trees. Time and again, John would lead us into what looked like a dead end, only to lead us out through a half-hidden passageway. Paddling through this labyrinth, I recalled the Lakota Native American saying, "If you don’t know where you’re going, any path will take you there." Eventually we neared the end and reluctantly circled around the last island before heading southward and home.
By now the heat and glare of the afternoon sun had reduced most of us to drowsiness, but John and B.J. still had enough energy to cool off with an impromptu water fight.
The mood and the tempo of the trip were changing rapidly from the carefree, relaxed paddle we had savoured that morning. A warm breeze created a headwind that pushed ripples against us – nature’s subtle hint that we should not tarry unnecessarily. As we completed our circuit along the western shore, we noted the far less dramatic shoreline scenery, uninterrupted by islets. With the best exploration of the day behind us we elected to push on without delay.
After forty-five minutes at an accelerated pace, Roger, Donna and I arrived at the take-out – the same spot where we bad put in. John and B.J. lingered offshore near an island, where John was cooling off by executing Eskimo self-arrest half-rolls, as he had been doing all day.
The scene at the damsite had changed considerably since our departure that morning. Now the place was teeming with locals who well knew the intricacies of the back roads to the pond: an army of kid swimmers, sunbathers, and picnickers, along with a navy of canoeists, sailors, and tubers. All were living it up at Grafton Pond City, staked out and settled in. Recalling Woody Guthrie’s This Land Is Your Land, I silently hummed my own version of the lyrics: This Pond Is Your Pond, a people’s pond open to all to enjoy, free of charge.
I glanced back to see John and B.J. paddling in. He looked a bit dazed. "I did a half Eskimo roll too vigorously," he explained, "and everything popped off – prescription glasses, clip-on sunglasses, and head strap. It all sank to the bottom." John’s quick search of his van brought instant relief; he had indeed brought a spare pair of glasses, enabling him to drive home.
Throughout the day, we all spoke frequently of the next trip we intended to take on Grafton Pond. We were determined to return and launch our kayaks here, gliding silently into the world of herons and loans. There’s no doubt in my mind that anyone who cannot feel quiet elation and joy at Grafton Pond probably will be unable to find it anywhere else.
For trips, information and recreational opportunities contact SPNHF, 54 Portsmouth Street, Concord, NH 03301; Telephone (603) 224-9945.
This article originally appeared in the April 2002 issue of Atlantic Coastal Kayaker.
THE WHO, WHAT, WHERE, WHY, WHEN AND HOW OF THE SPORT
Wendy Killoran
WHAT IS SEA KAYAKING?
Sea kayaking is a water sport that opens up a lifetime of endless possibilities of exploration and recreation. A sea kayak, life jacket, double bladed paddle and spray skirt are the bare essentials needed to be able to paddle as well as feeling comfortable on the water. Sea kayaking is an enchanting method of exploring one’s surroundings, giving access to inaccessible shoreline. It is a great way to occupy oneself, spending quality time with friends and family.
WHY SHOULD I PADDLE A SEA KAYAK?
The benefits of paddling are numerous. It promotes physical activity, helps release mental stress, and can be both exciting and relaxing. It awakens one’s senses and helps one feel fully alive. Sea kayaking is self-satisfying and a fulfilling activity. It promotes a healthy life-style and helps establish friendships with like-minded people. It can be done throughout one’s life, even as a family activity. It’s soul satisfying, provides a unique sense of liberation and puts one in touch with nature. Sea kayaking gives one very special travel options and opportunities. It provides us with chances to find solitude, an essential ingredient often lacking in our busy lives, which helps promote self-discovery and self-realization. Providing us with a sense of accomplishment, it helps to build our self-esteem. Essentially, sea kayaking benefits us physically, emotionally and spiritually. It’s an all-encompassing activity promoting wellbeing. I paddle because I love to paddle. I’m passionate about the sport. It inspires my thoughts and stimulates my creativity and energy level.
WHERE DO I START?
Start by taking a basic paddling course from a reputable paddling establishment. First go on a day paddle with a small group in a sheltered location. Start by building your comfort level by paddling with competent, experienced paddlers. Learn as much as possible about the skills necessary to safely enjoy paddling such as reading books and articles, speaking with advanced paddlers and watching informative videos. Take courses in basic rescue, navigation, and first aid. Go with a tour group on some paddling trips prior to making your own plans. Join a sea kayaking association or local paddling club to meet other people passionate about sea kayaking.
WHERE SHOULD I SEA KAYAK?
Possibilities for paddling are limited only by the imagination. Where there is water, there is a paddling opportunity. Paddling can be done locally, provincially, nationally or internationally. Sea kayaking locations are seasonally affected. For day trips, choose local destinations. Start in a sheltered area and progressively choose more challenging destinations. Monitor weather conditions prior and during paddles; in particular, observe the marine forecast which provides details on wind and wave conditions. Access to marine forecasts could include TV weather networks and internet web-sites. Choose areas that are more sheltered from prevailing weather conditions by paddling in archipelagoes. Choose more exposed destinations once your skill level and competency has increased and the inherent risk level is decreased. Choose tropical locations for winter paddling. It’s a very magical way to spend a well-earned holiday. Extend your paddling season and destination options by purchasing a quality dry suit. Choose to paddle in areas where motorized boat traffic will be limited or is restricted, increasing the sense of solitude, safety factor and enjoyment level.
WHO SHOULD I PADDLE WITH?
Paddle with competent, experienced paddlers when beginning and learn from their knowledge and experience. Paddle with tour groups and learn from the guides and experienced group members. Join a sea kayaking association and meet other paddlers equally fond of this endearing sport. Paddle with family members. Paddling is for almost anyone, any age and any size. It’s quality time spent with the ones we love. Paddle with friends and colleagues. Join a paddling club and make new friends to paddle with. Follow a course and paddle with people striving to improve their skill level and competence.
WHEN SHOULD I PADDLE?
Paddle as often as possible as the benefits are worth the effort. Paddle locally for brief paddles before or after work. It reduces stress levels dramatically. Paddle for day trips on weekends or even brief two to three day sojourns within a few hours drive from home. Paddle longer trips and expeditions when you have holiday time. Paddle extended expeditions when a leave of absence can be arranged or when your priorities in life shift and time is available. Paddling for a few hours, days, weeks, or months is a choice you make. Choose to paddle often. Reaping the benefits is worth it. Paddle in the winter with proper protection from the elements by wearing a dry suit. Paddle at night only once you have reached a high comfort level on the water and have proper night safety devices such as a strobe light. Paddle during the calm part of the day, usually early morning and evening. Paddle only when water conditions are safe.
HOW DO I PREPARE MYSELF TO PADDLE SAFELY?
Start by taking basic paddling and rescue courses. Paddle often, increasing your challenges and goals frequently, thus increasing your skill level and ultimately your comfort level. Practise strokes and rescues often. Practise strokes and rescues in increasingly challenging conditions but at the same time in relatively safe conditions once your competence level increases. Learn as much as possible about navigation, minimum impact camping techniques, dangerous flora and fauna, and first aid by taking courses and through research. Always paddle wearing a PFD (personal flotation device). Paddle wearing clothing suitable for immersion in the water temperature being paddled. Have safety devices close at hand, always readily accessible such as whistle, flares, bilge pump, paddle float, sponsons, compass, navigational charts or maps, spare paddle, cell phone or VHF radio. Always protect yourself from the elements, whether it’s sun, heat, cold, precipitation, waves etc. Have an alternate back-up plan when plan A is too risky to execute. Always use common sense and good judgement in making paddling decisions. Never drink alcohol or "do drugs" prior to or during your paddling. Know when to stop by not pushing beyond your personal limits. Tired minds could make poor decisions. Keep a small, properly waterproofed, survival kit on you personally. Inform others of your trip plan, including your paddling route and expected date or time of return. Always have a dry bag with dry spare clothes. Make your safety and your paddling companions safety top priority.
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