Selected articles from the Summer 2000 issue
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LION’S HEAD PROVINCIAL NATURE RESERVE
Doug Cunningham
The trip along the Georgian Bay shoreline of the Bruce Peninsula from Lion’s Head to Barrow Bay is approximately 12 kilometres in length. One should allow the better part of a day to enjoy it as a day-trip, or could make it a leisurely two-day trip by camping at McKay’s Harbour where an old logging road leads up to the Bruce Trail.
The Lion’s Head Promontory and its backcountry regions are classified as an Area of Natural and Scientific Interest. Paddling this section of the escarpment provides a rich opportunity to experience first hand its many natural wonders – from the rich fossil history, through the beautiful cliff ecosystem with its rock climbers and old growth cedars, through to the hiking trails that radiate out from McKay’s Harbour and into the wildflower rich woodland.
These shores are exposed to the north, east, and southeast, with no barrier lea protection. Wind and waves can combine to produce conditions which would challenge experienced kayakers. The waters are cold, deep, and the reflection of the waves from the escarpment shoreline produce clapotis that makes paddling challenging. When rounding the Lion’s Head Point beware of surf accompanying strong north and east winds. Get an accurate weather and wind update before venturing out.
The best time to make this trip is May through September. There is very little shoreline development as this is a Provincial Nature Reserve but there are cottages at the south side of Lion’s Head Harbour and along the shore adjacent to the entrance to Little Lake at Barrow Bay. Lion’s Head provides the main harbour north of Wiarton and is the home base to many sailboats and motorboats. On summer weekends there is considerable traffic in and about the harbour mouth. Exercise caution when entering or leaving this area. In addition caution should be exercised when entering the narrow entrance to Little Lake at Barrow Bay. Parking is available at the Lion’s Head Beach Park and Barrow Bay-Little Lake boat launch.
POINTS OF INTEREST
(See Map)
Lion’s Head: There are number of unidentified shipwrecks in Lion’s Head Harbour; the shallowest is a 42 metre long schooner that can be easily seen from a kayak. Looking out from the Lion’s Head Beach you can see Point Hangcliffe, the highest section of this section of the escarpment, and farther along, at the end, you can detect the outline of the famous lion’s head.
Lighthouse: A replica of the Lion’s Head Lighthouse has been constructed just to the north of the breakwater by students of the Technical Department of the Bruce Peninsula District School. The original lighthouse, which had been built on the end of the breakwater near the entrance channel, was disassembled and destroyed by the Coast Guard in May 1969. Lion’s Head residents still mourn their loss and anchor ends in the concrete pier still mark the original location.
Brachiopods: Just north of the breakwater at Lion’s Head the pebbles and cobbles are full of fossil corals. As well, located in the large dolomite slabs on the beach are abundant brachiopods.
Cliff Climbing: Paddling along the massive cliffs and talus slopes of the Lion’s Head Nature Reserve you will become aware of rock -climbers. Some of the best dolomite rock climbing in North America is to be found here, and watching ascents from the seat of your kayak is certainly entertaining.
Old Cedars: The "Old Growth Cedars" which cling tenaciously to the exposed dolomite cliff faces represent the oldest undisturbed plant community in Ontario. Some of these cedars are more than 1000 years old and represent a valuable record of past climate changes.
McKay’s Harbour: This harbour is located about a kilometre beyond the Lion’s Head Point and was the site of a summertime fishing camp, complete with bunkhouses, docks and fish packing facilities, until 1913. It is not a particularly good harbour because of its eastern exposure and partially submerged boulder barrier reef. The beach itself is a mixed beach of sand, cobbles, and hardhead boulders. If conditions permit, however, it is worthwhile stopping or camping at the Bruce Trail Campground and then exploring the back trails of the Lion’s Head Nature Reserve. Wildflowers, karst topography, and magnificent scenic vistas await the explorer.
Cliff Paddling: From McKay’s Harbour past Gun Point to Barrow Bay is a pleasant paddle in calm conditions. The shoreline is talus slope, cobble beach, and exposed cliff, but be warned, until you reach Barrow Bay there is little opportunity to egress. The Bruce Trail winds along the top of the cliffs and you will see a number of hikers during your journey.
Water Falls: The boat launch area at Little Lake is located next to a set of the waterfalls produced when the waters of Judges Creek descend the escarpment. In spring the falls are quite energetic and produce spray and roar in abundance.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Maps: 1:50,000 Dyer’s Bay (41 H/3); Cape Croker (41 A/14)
This is one in a series of trip descriptions collected by the Georgian Bay Committee for a paddling guide to the Bay.
THOUGHTS FOR A STORMY DAY
Tim Dyer
Another stormy morning on Georgian Bay, and I find myself digging up old saws out of the dark recesses of my feeble brain. Provoking this unearthing, is a comment one of our wiser guides made a while ago. It was the end of an intense kayak instructor’s course where proving one’s paddling ability was the focus. It was time for everyone to close with final thoughts before we returned to our more normal world. Jack reminded us of our own mortality and frailty by asking, "What are we (as instructors) going to do when our skills fail, because one day they surely will?" What he was getting at is an ancient truth about vessel seaworthiness and one we often conveniently ignore in paddling. A boat cannot rely just on its operator to stay afloat; to be truly worthy of the sea it must have an inherent ability to stay on top of the waves.
This stability can be built into the hull, or provided externally with aids such as sponsons. Curiously, the paddling community has not embraced sponsons fully. There seems to be an on-going comparison between sponsons and paddle floats as a self- rescue aid. This is where the debate gets muddled. If one defines a successful rescue as being complete once the vessel and operator are upright and safely underway again, then the rescue has two fundamental parts. The first is getting the paddler back in the boat. The second is having the kayak underway again with sufficient stability to prevent re-capsize. Unfortunately, paddlers (and a lot of instructors!) define a successful rescue as simply getting back in. Given only one aid to simply re-enter, I too would choose a paddle float as being a bit more friendly to use, but if I have both employed, my task gets even easier. Once back in the boat however, the paddle float is not able to provide on-going stability, as it has to be removed to use the paddle. If sponsons are deployed as well, however, then even if the cockpit is awash with water, the kayak will be fairly stable and able to be paddled out of danger. That’s pretty good stability in my book!
My point is that surely we should use whatever it takes to get back in and then to maintain stability once underway again. Paddle floats are a bit easier and cheaper. Sponsons also do the job but in addition give residual stability so you can paddle safely out of harm. Either will assist with getting in, and together they really work well. Some argue that cost is a factor, floats being much cheaper. I think that’s a load of baloney – total cost is less than most pay for an average paddle, and a tiny fraction of what a boat costs. Besides, try amortizing the cost of your life! But I think there is a more subtle reason why this debate hasn’t been resolved long ago, and it goes back to what Jack was getting at. Our skills will surely wane, yet paddlers in their prime often don’t want to imagine that. If we go over, why we’ll just roll up. If we end up out of the boat then just give us a quick, cheap way of getting back in and we’ll be on our way, thank you very much. I cut through that crap in myself pretty quickly by listing what essential gear I would want on-board for an exposed Bay crossing. You can bet your booties that I’ll take both paddle float and sponsons – and won’t be shy about using them. I’ll take a sea anchor too, just as important … but that’s a topic for another stormy day.
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