Qayaq

Selected articles from the Winter 1999 issue

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CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COVE ISLAND

Cove Island Lighthouse

Doug Cunningham

      This trip can be done either as a 20 kilometre round trip, (which would include the circumnavigation of Cove Island), or a shorter day-trip involving visits to the island’s picturesque west coast, or as one component of a multi-day excursion involving camping on Flowerpot Island.

      This special 20 kilometre tour of Cove Island, the largest island in Canada’s first National Marine Park, Fathom Five National Marine Park, will take a day to complete. Rewards for the kayaker are many: small sea caves on North Otter Island, the picturesque inner-island waterway between Williscroft Island and Cove Island, a number of shipwrecks, rare flora, an Imperial Lighthouse with its support buildings dating back more than 140 years, and, as always, the fascinating Escarpment dolomite and limestone geology. Note that the interior of Cove Island around the large inland lake visible on topographic maps is zoned "preserved" and access to the area may be restricted.

      There are reasons for the numerous shipwrecks to be found within the boundaries of Fathom Five National Marine Park; in particular, the boating hazards posed by barely submerged reefs and an exposed western shore with a long wind fetch across Lake Huron. Caution should be exercised at all times, but particularly in the Spring and Fall when large broaching and surfing waves combined with cold waters can produce a tragedy for the inexperienced. The largest crossing, from Russel Island to Cove Island is approximately 2 kilometres. Make sure you obtain the latest marine weather forecast before venturing out and remember to wear immersion protection, i.e. dry suits or wet suits, for spring and fall paddling. Poison ivy is prevalent on Cove Island as well as the protected and endangered Massassauga Rattlesnake. Wear boots when exploring inland and watch your step.

      Heavy boat traffic from Tobermory – sail boats, commercial fishing boats, pleasure yachts and Ontario Northland’s car ferry, the Chi Cheemaun – all present navigation concerns. Take particular caution if you are crossing MacGregor Channel between Cove Island and Big Tub Harbour in the fog!

      The best time to make this trip is May through September. There are cottages and commercial developments within Little Tub and Big Tub Harbours, but no development on Cove Island. Camping is not permitted on Cove Island due to its unique conservation and preservation status. Camping is available within Fathom Five Park only on Flowerpot Island; there are only 6 sites and they must be reserved in advance.

 Infant Sea Cave

POINTS OF INTEREST
(See Map Below)

  1. Big Tub Lighthouse: Departure and return point, parking and washrooms.

  2. Shipwrecks: Worthy of a diversion, or as a short trip in its own right, is a visit to two shipwrecks, the City of Grand Rapids and the Sweepstakes, both located at the head of Big Tub Harbour. Only part of the Grand Rapids still remains but the Sweepstakes wreck is almost complete and can be readily glimpsed from your kayak.

  3. Griffon Cove: This half kilometre cove is located on the eastern side of Russel Island. A Tobermory resident, Orrie Vail, claims to have found timbers from LaSalle’s ship, the Griffon, within the shallow waters of the cove.

  4. The Gut: This entrance to Cove Island Harbour, or Larondes Harbour, is quite picturesque and best experienced from the seat of a kayak. A building and small wharf identify the harbour.

  5. Boat Passage Harbour: A pleasant location to paddle and, although older topographic maps show an exit onto the eastern edge of Cove Island, the passage of time and frequent storms have closed the eastern end.

  6. Islands of Bass Bay: On the northwest section of Cove Island is Bass Bay, a small, exposed bay about three kilometres long, located between Gat Point and Stag Island, and containing a number of small dolomite islands that provide a frame for scenic paddling. About halfway between Stag Island and Ed’s Harbour and nestled on the Cove Island side of a number of small dolomite islands, search for a short portage into Cove Island’s second largest lake. At one time this lake was attached to Lake Huron.

  7. Cove Island Light: This Imperial Lighthouse, one of only six on the Great Lakes, was built in 1854. It is now automated but if weather conditions permit, it would make an enjoyable stopover for a picnic. Lots of maritime history is associated with this area.

  8. Wreck of the P Minch: On the southeastern side of Tecumseh Cove and lying in 5 to 15 metres of water lies the wreck of the three-masted American schooner the P. Minch.

  9. Sea Caves in Infancy: Paddling the Otter Island Channel between Cove Island and Otter Island you will pass sections of undercut dolomite, sea caves in the making. Interesting to paddle underneath, but be careful of boat wakes.

Fathom Five Park

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Map: 1:50,000 Flowerpot Island (41H/5)
Park Information: For further information and campsite reservations, contact Fathom Five Park at (519) 596-2233.


This is one in a series of trip descriptions collected by the Georgian Bay Committee for a paddling guide to the Bay.



VIEW FROM THE BAY

NEW HORIZONS AND OLD

Tim Dyer

      A cold November evening, and I’m looking back over a summer of paddling. Yup, the Bay is busier, but busier in that busy people are busily boating on it in the busy season … Huh? What I’m getting at is that just like everything else, the Bay is a victim of over-population and over-marketing, but it seems limited to the midsummer madness. I have still paddled much to myself in June and September. You could fire a cannon up and down the Bay in October and November and not many would hear.

      On the July 1 weekend, we were perched with two other families on one of the most popular campsites on the Bay, in the heart of kayak country. In the course of a 4-day weekend, I counted 6 kayaks and two canoes passing us. That sure ain’t many. So where are all the folks? Well, there were clouds in the sky and rain in the offing. I’m guessing a lot of new sea kayaking converts aren’t hard-core, and will scurry to the nearest Tim Horton’s once the Bay kicks up. Coupled with that is an odd idea that there is ever new territory to conquer. Traditional paddling areas are being passed over for the latest hot spot. Witness the run to Philip Edward Island and the enchantment with the North Channel and Lake Superior.

      "I’ve been here, done that, and now I gotta go there and do this?" Not a bad thing, as there are so many fine places to discover and explore. There’s more than we can hope to see in our small time on this planet. But it’s a treat to return to old lands and really see them for the first time. I am just now beginning to feel like a local in Parry Sound after 15 years, and I’m also coming to understand that the Georgian Bay rock, pine and sky are a part of me. I don’t ever want to let go.

      Sure I should seek out new horizons, and I do. But I don’t want to forget the magic of paddling, which comes from simply being in the boat, on the water, with a big grin – somewhere, anywhere!

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